Wave hi there to surfing in Portugal … surfers at Ericeira. picture: BREK/Joao Bracourt
Veerle Helsen spent six months visiting the coasts of north-west Spain and Portugal in her campervan and with a surfboard. Her ebook Surf & live files the journey in pics: the locations to stay, consume at and visit, in addition to the beaches. in this extract we’ve targeted at the Portuguese coast, selecting guesthouses, eating places and cafes that seize the trendy but laid-lower back feel of the local surfing community.
• We’ve avoided Lisbon and plenty of the Alentejo, which we've already covered.
SOUTHERN ALGARVE
stay: Casa Mãe, Lagos
the principle draw of Lagos can be its seashores but its quite, historical centre method there’s greater to it than your average beach city, and whilst the summer time crowds have gone, it’s a amazing base for catching some out-of-season rays. Casa Mãe’s rooms are spread over three homes, a 19th-century property residence, three cabañas and – the most cheap option – a contemporary building. Rooms are adorned with the works of neighborhood designers: on the walls hang carpets by using textile label Gur, which offers old weaving techniques a modern twist. The inn goals to make the maximum of the area and neighborhood abilties, laying on courses which includes cooking and ceramics, plus yoga periods. It also organises browsing, SUP, motorcycle rides and mountain climbing. The resort is open 12 months-spherical, and the eating place, open to non-visitors, makes the maximum of oysters from the nearby Ria Formosa.
• Doubles from €95 B&B, casa-mae.com
Surf: Chicks on Waves surf school, Burgau
Belgian-born Katrien Kegels organises women-handiest surf weeks referred to as Chicks on Waves. accommodation is on the beautifully furnished One lifestyles resort (open to guys and non-surfers too; doubles from €85 B&B) that looks over Praia do Burgau. Kegels thinks surfing is a female recreation: “The waves, the fluid lines, the poetry of the sea. We dance on the water and we’re out to have amusing. men need to show themselves. occasionally they break up the waves with their tricks, whereas girls go along with the waft of the sea.”
• chicksonwaves.com
devour O Lourenço, Salema
this is a simple but scrumptious seafood eating place inside the fishing village of Salema. Order the prato do dia (dish of the day) and tuck in for less than €7. There’s no sea view but it’s an unpretentious region wherein the swordfish steals the display. i used to be best going to make a pit forestall but ended up staying for three days.
• Rua 28 de Janeiro eleven, +351 282 698 622, on facebook
Drink The lawn, Lagos
At this elegant jungle-themed rooftop bar in significant Lagos, the meals isn’t memorable but the unusual surroundings is pure excursion vibe.
• Rua Lançarote de Freitas 48, Lagos, on facebook
ALENTEJO AND WESTERN ALGARVE
live: Aldeia da Pedralva
round 10 years ago, the village of Pedralva become almost deserted: just nine human beings lived there. since then, Lisbonite António Ferreira has introduced it lower back to existence after shopping for up a few homes to turn into his personal vacation home. He fell in love with the area and ended up shopping for 30 ruins for upkeep. There’s deliberately no wifi however there's a wonderful pizza eating place. And the 9 locals? They caught around.
• aldeiadapedralva.com
Surf: Surfmilfontes, Vila Nova de Milfontes
There aren’t as many surf schools in Alentejo as within the Algarve, but the degree is higher. The instructors at Surfmilfontes have a passion for the game and for the sea, and on the website is a complete guide to all the surf spots in the place.
• surfmilfontes.com
eat: eating place Choupana, Praia do Farol, Vila Nova de Milfontes
With a piece of creativeness, you could say that this beach eating place on stilts seems like the cabins that Le Corbusier constructed within the south of France. Tall home windows look out on Praia do Farol, wherein rocks shape loads of islands most effective seen at mid-tide.
• On facebook
Drink: Sítio do Forno, Praia do Amado
regardless of whether or not you force, cycle or walk alongside the spectacular avenue from Praia da Bordeira to Amado, you’re in for a treat. The shoreline is panoramic, savage and wild, and the hiking trails nearly take you into the sea. once at the beach, you’ll find a espresso truck that’s been run by way of the identical man, Acildo, for 25 years. Or stop for a drink and a small serving of sardinhas at Sítio do Forno. The plastic chairs and parasols won't sound inviting but the view is valuable. that is the great-recognized and most famous campervan spot within the Algarve.
ERICEIRA AND PENICHE
live: Magic Quiver, Ericeira
Petrina and Mario have been strolling Magic Quiver, a surf keep in Ericeira, for numerous years. in addition they rent out surf shacks and beach cabins throughout the resort. The wonderful indoors of the shop reflects their former life in Kuala Lumpur, and the furniture, timber lamps and macramé wall hangings are nearly all of the work of Petrina and nearby designers. Their hotel gives a rare carrier: you could rent or take a look at boards with the aid of Portuguese and global shapers. this is only for advanced surfers, but searching at all those chocolates in sweet colorings receives you dreaming.
• 15A Rua 5 de Outubro, doubles at the surflodge from €fifty six a night time, magicquiver.com
stay: Olá Onda, Ericeira
Loosely translated, the name approach whats up wave! This B&B is operated via Dutch surfer couple Jasper and Darcie. Darcie’s mom is Portuguese, so it turned into an smooth desire when they have been searching out someplace to set up a guesthouse. They bought a traditional villa, brought inexperienced shutters and spruced up the decor. Olá Onda is constructed on a hill of vines, from which you can take inside the points of interest and sounds of the sea. Its website capabilities an first-rate guide to the place’s surf spots.
• Doubles from €eighty B&B, ola-onda-ericeira.com
stay: Roots Ericeira Guesthouse & Ondina
Fred and Marta introduced out the port on my first night in their B&B, even though I arrived after nighttime. the subsequent night time, they took me and a few friends to Bar Zinho, in which we danced to a local band until the early hours. This B&B is homely instead of fancy. Fred is a former Belgian skiing champion who fell in love with a Portuguese woman. She knows the village and the village knows her. inside the summer of 2017 they opened a 2nd guesthouse, Ondina. The call combines two loves: Dina (Marta’s overdue mother) and onda (wave). Fred surfs as properly – to spot him in the sea, just appearance out for a surprise of white hair.
• Doubles from €46, rootsguesthouseericeira.com; dorm beds from €22, suite from €60, ondinaguesthouse.com
Surf: Oscar Schenk
i was sitting on a bench in Ericeira while Oscar Schenk’s canine came as much as me along with his tail wagging. a talk and three surf instructions later, I knew that Oscar changed into the exceptional longboard coach in Ericeira, or anywhere else for that depend. His dog, Meneer Janssen, is a surfer too – and has his very own profile on social media.
• One-day lesson from €85pp, hotzonesurf.com
eat: Tasca da Boa Viagem, Ericeira
Your hardly ever see Portuguese meat in coastal restaurants, so the selection at Tasca da Boa Viagem is a deal with. The menu even specifies the breeds, including the northern barossã and the mirandesa cattle, which have been used long ago to drag fishing boats out of the water. Pay by way of the gram and pick out the meat (or fish – they have got that too) from the refrigerated display case. Then turn round to see the home windows coloured blue by using the sea in the historical past.
• Rua Capitão João Lopes four, tascadaboaviagem.com
Drink: Sol é Vida, Atouguia da Baleia, near Peniche
At Praia da Consolação, this snack bar stands at the rocks within the sea, attempting its quality not to fall off. visit Sol é Vida (open April to October) at high tide, whilst the waves crash in opposition to the windows. you can’t get any in the direction of the sea at the same time as ingesting an aperitif.
• Praia da Consolação, hotelneptuno.pt
principal
live: Casa Azul, Nazaré
There’s a monster in the sea at Nazaré. A wave known as large Mama, behind the legendary lighthouse at Praia do Norte, can reach heights of greater than 30 metres. Nazaré is the only area in Portugal to hold large-wave competitions. simply off the coast, an extended, deep underwater trench plays its part, influencing the waves because the water collides against it. need to peer the spectacle yourself? Nazaré doesn’t continually work – not even maximum of the time, in reality. come in winter in case you’re looking for monster swells. For perspectives of those waves, stay at Casa Azul residences, furnished by way of Mariana, a Lisboan who provides a surf-and-metropolis vibe. Her husband, a surfer named João, will gladly come up with the lowdown at the close by waves.
• From €58 a night time (sleeps 4), airbnb.com
Surf: Surfer’s Camp
owner Rui Enes has been dwelling through the seashore for so long as he can recall. before he started out the camp, he worked in several faculties in Portugal and in Brazil and Mexico. finding a great surf school as an person is not always clean. Rui and his group will make you experience welcome irrespective of your age. He’s a salty soul, and before you are aware of it, you’ll be sharing sea testimonies.
• Praia De Esmoriz, Rua Senhor dos Aflitos 433, surferscamp.com
devour: SWELLcafé, Figueira da Foz
grasp breakfast or lunch at this bar within the port of Figueira da Foz, where there aren't any rental blocks or inns to break the view. experience the quirky environment and the fragrance of the Atlantic as you wash your (veggie) burger down with a scrumptious smoothie.
• Rua Cabedelo 1, on facebook
Drink: Costa Nova seaside club
At the doorway of Costa Nova seashore club a signal reminds you of something Very essential: don’t forget to build a sandcastle. everything on this bar is sea-evidence: there are hammocks, a82ee8a4ee179e54beacaecce0423cb2 beach chairs and tables where children could make pics with shells or stones. The bar serves cocktails, fresh lemonades, small dishes and homemade batatas fritas. handiest open during summer time.
• Praia da Costa Nova, on facebook
PORTO and northern PORTUGAL
live: Mar Dentro Surf Farm B&B, Carvalhos
a 15-minute pressure from Porto, however a global away, José and Joana’s Surf Farm lies next to a wooded area. The 3 bedrooms, built around a lush courtyard, have been renovated with the aid of the couple in Portuguese surf-sublime fashion, and there’s a caravan for lease near the forest. forums and old surf posters beautify the partitions, blending with the antique fixtures. José, who has a group of boards and wetsuits in his garden residence, takes visitors looking for waves. in case you’re lucky, Joana will light the barbecue in the interim and get cooking.
• From €40 a room with get admission to to kitchen, mardentro.com
Surf: Salty Waters
you can locate surf teachers anywhere, but the true ones stand out. My paddling approach all at once stepped forward after one lesson from Pedro Santos. And this is a man with huge plans: he is aiming to introduce Wavegarden (the synthetic wave device developed in Spain and used at Surf Snowdonia) to Portugal in 2019.
• institution training from €20, private instructions from €50 (1hr 30 minutes), saltywaters.pt
devour: Salta o Muro, Matosinhos
Rua Heróis de França in Matosinhos is covered with family restaurants. all of them don't have any-nonsense interiors with fluorescent lights, and there’s only one issue on the menu: fish. Ask the locals which is the first-rate location to consume and all of them say the equal: “The food in all the eating places is good – however Salta o Muro’s is the quality.” That’s because Moreira and his wife Dona were cooking here for 30 years, because the days while fish became brought via boat to the wall in the back of the eating place (therefore the name: “jump over the wall”).
• Rua Heróis de França 386, Matosinhos, saltaomuro.pt
eat: Tasca do Necas, Santa Marta de Portuzelo
The proprietor doesn’t communicate a word of English, which doesn’t be counted because few vacationers come right here. The crimson wine is served from a carafe into tiny cups and the menu revels in soups and selfmade sausage. construction employees drink pints on the bar and households come for the residence speciality: petisco de moelas (poultry gizzards).
• Santa Marta 151, Santa Marta de Portuzelo, on fb
Drink: Ibar, Porto
you'll walk immediately beyond Ibar, by Praia do Aquário, on the Atlantic coast south of Matosinhos, in case you didn’t realize it was there. look out for a terrace with pink parasols and white lounge chairs tucked between rocks. Don’t assume innovative cocktails or waiters in latest outfits, because you won’t locate them. but the sea view is priceless: Ibar literally sits on the edge of the ocean.
Veerle Helsen spent six months visiting the coasts of north-west Spain and Portugal in her campervan and with a surfboard. Her ebook Surf & live files the journey in pics: the locations to stay, consume at and visit, in addition to the beaches. in this extract we’ve targeted at the Portuguese coast, selecting guesthouses, eating places and cafes that seize the trendy but laid-lower back feel of the local surfing community.
• We’ve avoided Lisbon and plenty of the Alentejo, which we've already covered.
SOUTHERN ALGARVE
stay: Casa Mãe, Lagos
the principle draw of Lagos can be its seashores but its quite, historical centre method there’s greater to it than your average beach city, and whilst the summer time crowds have gone, it’s a amazing base for catching some out-of-season rays. Casa Mãe’s rooms are spread over three homes, a 19th-century property residence, three cabañas and – the most cheap option – a contemporary building. Rooms are adorned with the works of neighborhood designers: on the walls hang carpets by using textile label Gur, which offers old weaving techniques a modern twist. The inn goals to make the maximum of the area and neighborhood abilties, laying on courses which includes cooking and ceramics, plus yoga periods. It also organises browsing, SUP, motorcycle rides and mountain climbing. The resort is open 12 months-spherical, and the eating place, open to non-visitors, makes the maximum of oysters from the nearby Ria Formosa.
• Doubles from €95 B&B, casa-mae.com
Surf: Chicks on Waves surf school, Burgau
Belgian-born Katrien Kegels organises women-handiest surf weeks referred to as Chicks on Waves. accommodation is on the beautifully furnished One lifestyles resort (open to guys and non-surfers too; doubles from €85 B&B) that looks over Praia do Burgau. Kegels thinks surfing is a female recreation: “The waves, the fluid lines, the poetry of the sea. We dance on the water and we’re out to have amusing. men need to show themselves. occasionally they break up the waves with their tricks, whereas girls go along with the waft of the sea.”
• chicksonwaves.com
devour O Lourenço, Salema
this is a simple but scrumptious seafood eating place inside the fishing village of Salema. Order the prato do dia (dish of the day) and tuck in for less than €7. There’s no sea view but it’s an unpretentious region wherein the swordfish steals the display. i used to be best going to make a pit forestall but ended up staying for three days.
• Rua 28 de Janeiro eleven, +351 282 698 622, on facebook
Drink The lawn, Lagos
At this elegant jungle-themed rooftop bar in significant Lagos, the meals isn’t memorable but the unusual surroundings is pure excursion vibe.
• Rua Lançarote de Freitas 48, Lagos, on facebook
ALENTEJO AND WESTERN ALGARVE
live: Aldeia da Pedralva
round 10 years ago, the village of Pedralva become almost deserted: just nine human beings lived there. since then, Lisbonite António Ferreira has introduced it lower back to existence after shopping for up a few homes to turn into his personal vacation home. He fell in love with the area and ended up shopping for 30 ruins for upkeep. There’s deliberately no wifi however there's a wonderful pizza eating place. And the 9 locals? They caught around.
• aldeiadapedralva.com
Surf: Surfmilfontes, Vila Nova de Milfontes
There aren’t as many surf schools in Alentejo as within the Algarve, but the degree is higher. The instructors at Surfmilfontes have a passion for the game and for the sea, and on the website is a complete guide to all the surf spots in the place.
• surfmilfontes.com
eat: eating place Choupana, Praia do Farol, Vila Nova de Milfontes
With a piece of creativeness, you could say that this beach eating place on stilts seems like the cabins that Le Corbusier constructed within the south of France. Tall home windows look out on Praia do Farol, wherein rocks shape loads of islands most effective seen at mid-tide.
• On facebook
Drink: Sítio do Forno, Praia do Amado
regardless of whether or not you force, cycle or walk alongside the spectacular avenue from Praia da Bordeira to Amado, you’re in for a treat. The shoreline is panoramic, savage and wild, and the hiking trails nearly take you into the sea. once at the beach, you’ll find a espresso truck that’s been run by way of the identical man, Acildo, for 25 years. Or stop for a drink and a small serving of sardinhas at Sítio do Forno. The plastic chairs and parasols won't sound inviting but the view is valuable. that is the great-recognized and most famous campervan spot within the Algarve.
ERICEIRA AND PENICHE
live: Magic Quiver, Ericeira
Petrina and Mario have been strolling Magic Quiver, a surf keep in Ericeira, for numerous years. in addition they rent out surf shacks and beach cabins throughout the resort. The wonderful indoors of the shop reflects their former life in Kuala Lumpur, and the furniture, timber lamps and macramé wall hangings are nearly all of the work of Petrina and nearby designers. Their hotel gives a rare carrier: you could rent or take a look at boards with the aid of Portuguese and global shapers. this is only for advanced surfers, but searching at all those chocolates in sweet colorings receives you dreaming.
• 15A Rua 5 de Outubro, doubles at the surflodge from €fifty six a night time, magicquiver.com
stay: Olá Onda, Ericeira
Loosely translated, the name approach whats up wave! This B&B is operated via Dutch surfer couple Jasper and Darcie. Darcie’s mom is Portuguese, so it turned into an smooth desire when they have been searching out someplace to set up a guesthouse. They bought a traditional villa, brought inexperienced shutters and spruced up the decor. Olá Onda is constructed on a hill of vines, from which you can take inside the points of interest and sounds of the sea. Its website capabilities an first-rate guide to the place’s surf spots.
• Doubles from €eighty B&B, ola-onda-ericeira.com
stay: Roots Ericeira Guesthouse & Ondina
Fred and Marta introduced out the port on my first night in their B&B, even though I arrived after nighttime. the subsequent night time, they took me and a few friends to Bar Zinho, in which we danced to a local band until the early hours. This B&B is homely instead of fancy. Fred is a former Belgian skiing champion who fell in love with a Portuguese woman. She knows the village and the village knows her. inside the summer of 2017 they opened a 2nd guesthouse, Ondina. The call combines two loves: Dina (Marta’s overdue mother) and onda (wave). Fred surfs as properly – to spot him in the sea, just appearance out for a surprise of white hair.
• Doubles from €46, rootsguesthouseericeira.com; dorm beds from €22, suite from €60, ondinaguesthouse.com
Surf: Oscar Schenk
i was sitting on a bench in Ericeira while Oscar Schenk’s canine came as much as me along with his tail wagging. a talk and three surf instructions later, I knew that Oscar changed into the exceptional longboard coach in Ericeira, or anywhere else for that depend. His dog, Meneer Janssen, is a surfer too – and has his very own profile on social media.
• One-day lesson from €85pp, hotzonesurf.com
eat: Tasca da Boa Viagem, Ericeira
Your hardly ever see Portuguese meat in coastal restaurants, so the selection at Tasca da Boa Viagem is a deal with. The menu even specifies the breeds, including the northern barossã and the mirandesa cattle, which have been used long ago to drag fishing boats out of the water. Pay by way of the gram and pick out the meat (or fish – they have got that too) from the refrigerated display case. Then turn round to see the home windows coloured blue by using the sea in the historical past.
• Rua Capitão João Lopes four, tascadaboaviagem.com
Drink: Sol é Vida, Atouguia da Baleia, near Peniche
At Praia da Consolação, this snack bar stands at the rocks within the sea, attempting its quality not to fall off. visit Sol é Vida (open April to October) at high tide, whilst the waves crash in opposition to the windows. you can’t get any in the direction of the sea at the same time as ingesting an aperitif.
• Praia da Consolação, hotelneptuno.pt
principal
live: Casa Azul, Nazaré
There’s a monster in the sea at Nazaré. A wave known as large Mama, behind the legendary lighthouse at Praia do Norte, can reach heights of greater than 30 metres. Nazaré is the only area in Portugal to hold large-wave competitions. simply off the coast, an extended, deep underwater trench plays its part, influencing the waves because the water collides against it. need to peer the spectacle yourself? Nazaré doesn’t continually work – not even maximum of the time, in reality. come in winter in case you’re looking for monster swells. For perspectives of those waves, stay at Casa Azul residences, furnished by way of Mariana, a Lisboan who provides a surf-and-metropolis vibe. Her husband, a surfer named João, will gladly come up with the lowdown at the close by waves.
• From €58 a night time (sleeps 4), airbnb.com
Surf: Surfer’s Camp
owner Rui Enes has been dwelling through the seashore for so long as he can recall. before he started out the camp, he worked in several faculties in Portugal and in Brazil and Mexico. finding a great surf school as an person is not always clean. Rui and his group will make you experience welcome irrespective of your age. He’s a salty soul, and before you are aware of it, you’ll be sharing sea testimonies.
• Praia De Esmoriz, Rua Senhor dos Aflitos 433, surferscamp.com
devour: SWELLcafé, Figueira da Foz
grasp breakfast or lunch at this bar within the port of Figueira da Foz, where there aren't any rental blocks or inns to break the view. experience the quirky environment and the fragrance of the Atlantic as you wash your (veggie) burger down with a scrumptious smoothie.
• Rua Cabedelo 1, on facebook
Drink: Costa Nova seaside club
At the doorway of Costa Nova seashore club a signal reminds you of something Very essential: don’t forget to build a sandcastle. everything on this bar is sea-evidence: there are hammocks, a82ee8a4ee179e54beacaecce0423cb2 beach chairs and tables where children could make pics with shells or stones. The bar serves cocktails, fresh lemonades, small dishes and homemade batatas fritas. handiest open during summer time.
• Praia da Costa Nova, on facebook
PORTO and northern PORTUGAL
live: Mar Dentro Surf Farm B&B, Carvalhos
a 15-minute pressure from Porto, however a global away, José and Joana’s Surf Farm lies next to a wooded area. The 3 bedrooms, built around a lush courtyard, have been renovated with the aid of the couple in Portuguese surf-sublime fashion, and there’s a caravan for lease near the forest. forums and old surf posters beautify the partitions, blending with the antique fixtures. José, who has a group of boards and wetsuits in his garden residence, takes visitors looking for waves. in case you’re lucky, Joana will light the barbecue in the interim and get cooking.
• From €40 a room with get admission to to kitchen, mardentro.com
Surf: Salty Waters
you can locate surf teachers anywhere, but the true ones stand out. My paddling approach all at once stepped forward after one lesson from Pedro Santos. And this is a man with huge plans: he is aiming to introduce Wavegarden (the synthetic wave device developed in Spain and used at Surf Snowdonia) to Portugal in 2019.
• institution training from €20, private instructions from €50 (1hr 30 minutes), saltywaters.pt
devour: Salta o Muro, Matosinhos
Rua Heróis de França in Matosinhos is covered with family restaurants. all of them don't have any-nonsense interiors with fluorescent lights, and there’s only one issue on the menu: fish. Ask the locals which is the first-rate location to consume and all of them say the equal: “The food in all the eating places is good – however Salta o Muro’s is the quality.” That’s because Moreira and his wife Dona were cooking here for 30 years, because the days while fish became brought via boat to the wall in the back of the eating place (therefore the name: “jump over the wall”).
• Rua Heróis de França 386, Matosinhos, saltaomuro.pt
eat: Tasca do Necas, Santa Marta de Portuzelo
The proprietor doesn’t communicate a word of English, which doesn’t be counted because few vacationers come right here. The crimson wine is served from a carafe into tiny cups and the menu revels in soups and selfmade sausage. construction employees drink pints on the bar and households come for the residence speciality: petisco de moelas (poultry gizzards).
• Santa Marta 151, Santa Marta de Portuzelo, on fb
Drink: Ibar, Porto
you'll walk immediately beyond Ibar, by Praia do Aquário, on the Atlantic coast south of Matosinhos, in case you didn’t realize it was there. look out for a terrace with pink parasols and white lounge chairs tucked between rocks. Don’t assume innovative cocktails or waiters in latest outfits, because you won’t locate them. but the sea view is priceless: Ibar literally sits on the edge of the ocean.
• Av. de Montevideu 516, Praia do Aquário, on facebook
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